The septum piercing is one of the most visible placements on the face and one of the most anatomy-dependent. Placement that misses the sweet spot by a few millimetres — either piercing through cartilage above or fatty tissue below — changes the experience entirely: more painful, slower to heal, and prone to migration. Getting it right requires an accurate anatomy assessment and a piercer with the skill to execute a precise needle pass in a small, anatomy-variable target.
At Platinum Point in Parnell, septum piercings are performed by Kat Thurlow, who also offers consultations in Taiwanese Mandarin for clients who prefer it.
What is a septum piercing?
The septum piercing passes through the soft tissue of the nasal septum — not the cartilage itself. The correct target is a thin strip of tissue at the base of the septum, positioned between the cartilage above and the fleshy tip of the nose below. This strip is known as the sweet spot, and it is soft, vascular, and relatively thin in most clients.
When placed correctly through the sweet spot, the septum piercing heals comparably to a standard soft tissue piercing — faster than cartilage and with less complication risk. When placed incorrectly through the cartilage above, it heals slowly and painfully, with a significantly higher complication rate. The difference is entirely in the accuracy of the initial placement.
Anatomy assessment
The sweet spot varies in position and size between clients. In most people it is accessible without difficulty. In some, the sweet spot is narrow, sits higher than typical, or is positioned asymmetrically due to a deviated septum. In a small number of clients, the anatomy makes a clean sweet spot placement genuinely difficult.
This is assessed at the appointment before any decision to proceed. If the anatomy makes a correct placement unlikely to sit well or heal cleanly, that will be communicated clearly. Proceeding with a compromised placement because a client wants the piercing regardless is not something we do.
A deviated septum doesn't automatically prevent a septum piercing — it changes the placement calculation and may affect how the jewellery hangs once fitted. This is discussed at the assessment.
Pain
The septum piercing rates as moderate to moderately high on pain scales — typically 5 to 7 out of 10. The position close to nerve-rich nasal tissue means the piercing almost always produces involuntary eye watering. This catches many clients off guard. It is a reflex response driven by the proximity to the nasolacrimal system, not an indicator of pain level. The eyes water; it doesn't mean the pain is severe.
The needle pass itself is brief — a fraction of a second. Most clients report that the anticipation is more significant than the piercing. The sensation during jewellery fitting, immediately after, can feel like a brief concentrated pressure. This settles within minutes.
Healing
The sweet spot tissue is mucosal — more vascular than cartilage and faster to heal. Expect 6–8 months for the fistula to stabilise, with full maturity at 9–12 months. Mucosal tissue heals differently to skin: it produces less visible crusting and the piercing may feel comfortable well before it is fully healed. Comfort is not a reliable indicator of healing completion.
During healing, specific activities require care:
- Nose blowing: Forceful blowing creates pressure on the piercing. Blow gently, one nostril at a time, and clean the area with saline spray afterwards.
- Swimming: Pools, open water, and hot tubs introduce bacteria to healing tissue. Avoid until fully healed.
- Illness: Nasal discharge during a cold or illness contacts the piercing site continuously. Clean more frequently during illness; do not use medicated nasal sprays directly on the piercing.
- Makeup and skincare: Keep products away from the piercing site. Moisturiser or foundation at the base of the nose will contact the jewellery entry and exit points.
Sterile saline spray twice daily is the correct aftercare approach. No rotation, no antiseptic, no tea tree oil.
The retractable feature
One of the distinguishing practical advantages of a septum piercing over most other facial piercings is concealability. A circular barbell — the horseshoe-shaped starter jewellery — can be flipped up inside the nose so that neither end is visible from the front. Done correctly, the piercing is undetectable.
This makes the septum piercing compatible with professional environments that don't allow visible facial piercings. Retainers — clear or flesh-toned pieces — also achieve concealment and are an option once the piercing is healed.
Not all jewellery styles allow flipping. Decorative clicker rings and some seam rings cannot be hidden this way. If concealment is a priority for you, discuss it at your appointment — the starter jewellery will be chosen accordingly.
Best jewellery for a septum piercing
The correct starter piece is an ASTM F136 implant-grade titanium circular barbell, sized to your anatomy. The circular barbell allows the flipping function during healing and sits with appropriate clearance at the base of the nose.
Once the piercing is fully healed, the range of options expands considerably:
- Seam rings: A continuous ring with a seamless join. Clean, minimal, and suited to smaller-diameter placements. Available in 14k and 18k gold.
- Hinged clicker rings: Open with a hinge mechanism for easy fitting. BVLA produces septum clickers in solid 14k gold with stone settings — a hinged gold clicker with a bezel-set opal or diamond is among the most wearable and visually complete septum pieces available.
- Decorative circular barbells: Gold horseshoe barbells with stone-set or shaped ends. These sit with the ends visible below the nose and allow flipping for concealment.
The diameter and gauge of the jewellery must be chosen based on your specific anatomy. A ring that is too small creates pressure on the tissue; too large and it hangs low and moves excessively. Your piercer measures for this at the upgrade appointment.
All jewellery upgrades at Platinum Point are BVLA — solid gold and 950 platinum, handcrafted in Los Angeles with genuine stones. We hold New Zealand's largest BVLA inventory in-studio.
Long-term considerations
A healed septum piercing is relatively stable. Unlike some cartilage piercings, the septum fistula doesn't close rapidly after removal — a piercing worn for several years may take weeks or months to narrow significantly once the jewellery is out, and in many cases can be re-opened by a professional without requiring a new piercing track.
This makes the septum one of the more commitment-tolerant placements for clients who are uncertain about permanence. The healing period is real — 9–12 months — but the long-term flexibility is greater than with most cartilage placements.
Frequently asked questions
Does a septum piercing go through cartilage?
The correct placement passes through the soft tissue sweet spot at the base of the septum — not through the cartilage itself. Piercing through cartilage is an incorrect placement. It is significantly more painful, heals more slowly, and produces worse long-term outcomes. Locating the sweet spot precisely is the critical skill in septum piercing.
Can I hide a septum piercing for work?
Yes. A circular barbell or retainer can be flipped up inside the nose to conceal the piercing in professional settings. This is one of the practical advantages of the septum placement. Not all jewellery styles allow flipping — discuss concealment requirements at your appointment and the starter jewellery will be chosen accordingly.
How much does a septum piercing cost in Auckland?
Current pricing for a septum piercing at Platinum Point — including the anatomy assessment, the piercing, and ASTM F136 implant-grade titanium starter jewellery — is listed on our pricing page.
Is the septum piercing painful?
Moderate — typically 5 to 7 out of 10. The proximity to nerve-rich nasal tissue means the piercing almost always causes involuntary eye watering. This is a reflex response, not a pain indicator. The needle pass itself is brief. Most clients find the anticipation more significant than the act.