Solid gold piercing jewellery in New Zealand — what you need to know

The body jewellery market in New Zealand has a terminology problem. 'Gold' on a piece of jewellery can mean solid 18k gold, or it can mean a thin electroplated gold coating over brass that will wear off within months. 'Gold-tone' means no gold at all. 'Gold-filled' is a specific construction somewhere in between. And 'vermeil' — a term appearing more often in the premium fashion jewellery market — is another variation with specific legal requirements in some markets but none in New Zealand.

For body jewellery that sits in a healing piercing — or in any piercing — understanding what the gold actually is matters. This guide clarifies the distinctions, explains what is appropriate for different piercing contexts, and covers the options available in New Zealand.

Solid gold — what it actually means

Solid gold jewellery has a consistent gold alloy content throughout the entire piece. The purity is described in karats (k) — a unit expressing how much of the alloy is pure gold out of 24 parts:

• 24k gold: 99.9% pure gold. Too soft for most jewellery applications — it bends and scratches easily. Not used for body jewellery.
• 18k gold: 75% gold, 25% other metals (typically silver, copper, palladium, or platinum depending on the alloy). Richer colour, softer than 14k, preferred for fine gem settings and jewellery where colour saturation matters. The most common karat for BVLA pieces.
• 14k gold: 58.5% gold, 41.5% other metals. Harder and more durable than 18k — holds its shape better, more resistant to scratching and denting. Preferred for active placements and everyday wear. Also more affordable per piece than 18k.
• 9k gold: 37.5% gold. Common in New Zealand fashion jewellery and available more broadly because of the lower material cost. Acceptable for fashion jewellery but the higher proportion of base metals means a greater risk of reactions in sensitive individuals. Generally not used for professional body jewellery.

At Platinum Point, all BVLA pieces are 14k or 18k solid gold. 9k is not used.

Gold-plated, gold-filled, and vermeil — the differences

These terms describe different constructions where a base metal is covered with gold in some way. Understanding the distinction helps when evaluating what you are buying:

• Gold-plated: A base metal (usually brass, copper, or silver) with a thin layer of gold applied by electroplating. The gold layer is typically between 0.5 and 2.5 microns thick. It wears off with regular contact — faster with water, sweat, skincare products, and friction. A plated piece may look identical to solid gold when new; within months, the base metal shows through at friction points (clasps, edges, the backs of earring posts). For body jewellery in contact with skin or tissue, this is not appropriate.
• Gold-filled: A base metal core bonded with a thicker layer of gold under heat and pressure. The gold layer is typically 5% of the total weight. More durable than gold-plated and can last years with appropriate care. Still not solid gold — the base metal is present and can be exposed at cut edges or damaged areas. Not appropriate for healing piercings.
• Vermeil: Gold-plated over sterling silver (rather than brass), with the gold layer typically being at least 2.5 microns thick. The sterling silver base is less reactive than brass. Sometimes marketed as a more premium alternative to standard gold-plating. Still plated — the coating wears, exposing the silver beneath. Not appropriate for healing piercings.

The simplest test: if a piece of 'gold' jewellery is significantly cheaper than solid gold pieces of comparable size and construction, it is almost certainly plated. There is no cost-effective way to produce solid 14k or 18k gold body jewellery at the price points common in fashion jewellery and some piercing studios.

White gold — what it is and the nickel question

White gold is a gold alloy where the yellow colour of pure gold is counteracted by mixing with white metals — typically palladium, silver, or nickel. The nickel content is significant for body jewellery:

• Nickel white gold alloys: Cheaper to produce and very common. Nickel is the most frequent contact allergen — reactions manifest as redness, itching, and inflammation at the contact site. In a healing piercing, this is a significant problem. Some people who wear white gold fashion jewellery without issue react to nickel when the same metal is in contact with healing tissue for months.
• Palladium white gold alloys: More expensive but nickel-free. Appropriate for sensitive clients. BVLA uses palladium-alloyed white gold.

If you are considering white gold body jewellery, confirm whether the alloy contains nickel. If you have any history of metal sensitivity, nickel-free white gold or platinum is the appropriate choice.

Rose gold — the copper consideration

Rose gold gets its warm pink-copper colour from a higher proportion of copper in the alloy. Copper can cause reactions in some people — less commonly than nickel, but not never. For most clients, rose gold is fine. If you have known metal sensitivities, discuss with your piercer before choosing rose gold.

When is solid gold appropriate for piercings?

Solid 14k or 18k gold is appropriate for:

• Fully healed piercings: Once a piercing is completely healed (the fistula is stable, no crust or discharge, no tenderness), solid gold is an excellent long-term material. This is the primary context for BVLA gold jewellery at Platinum Point.
• Initial lobes in some circumstances: For lobe piercings in clients with confirmed anatomy and no sensitivity concerns, solid gold can be used as starter jewellery. This is not standard practice; the preferred starter for all piercings at Platinum Point is ASTM F136 titanium, which is lighter and easier to sterilise.
• Downsizes and upgrades: Once the initial healing phase is complete and the downsize appointment has happened, solid gold can be fitted as the long-term jewellery.

Solid gold is not appropriate as the initial starter jewellery for cartilage piercings — it is heavier than titanium and the weight can contribute to movement in the healing fistula. Start with titanium, upgrade to gold once healed.

Solid gold body jewellery in New Zealand

Solid gold body jewellery is available in New Zealand from a small number of sources. Most fashion jewellery in New Zealand is gold-plated, gold-filled, or 9k solid gold — not 14k or 18k body jewellery made to implant standards.

Platinum Point is New Zealand's only exclusive stockist of BVLA — Body Vision Los Angeles — solid 14k and 18k gold and 950 platinum body jewellery made to implant-quality standards in Los Angeles. BVLA pieces are available for fitting at our Parnell studio alongside new piercings, at downsize or upgrade appointments, or as standalone jewellery changes for existing healed piercings.

All BVLA pieces at Platinum Point are autoclave-sterilised before fitting. They arrive from the manufacturer in protective packaging and are not displayed for handling — they are shown to clients in packaging and fitted from there.

The longevity argument for solid gold

The cost difference between solid gold body jewellery and plated alternatives is significant. BVLA pieces start from $180. A plated piece with a similar appearance might cost $30–$60 from a fashion jewellery retailer.

Over time, the economics shift. Solid 14k or 18k gold does not wear, does not tarnish in any meaningful way under normal conditions, and does not need replacement. A plated piece worn daily will show wear within months — quicker with water and sweat exposure, as is inevitable in an earring or nose stud. Over three years of daily wear, the cost comparison narrows considerably. Over a decade, solid gold is the cheaper option.

This is before accounting for the tissue reactions that can result from base metal exposure in a worn plated piece — or the clinical costs of managing a poorly healing piercing caused by inappropriate jewellery.

Not sure which gold piece is right for you? Use the Ear Builder to visualise placements, or try Mood to Metal to find your style before your appointment.

Visit us in Parnell, Auckland

Platinum Point is at 389 Parnell Road, Parnell, Auckland 1052. We are open Monday, Wednesday–Sunday by appointment. Clients come to us from across Auckland — Remuera, Newmarket, the CBD, Ponsonby, the North Shore — for BVLA jewellery fittings, new piercings, and jewellery upgrades on existing healed piercings. Call 09 949 0940 or book online at platinumpoint.nz/book.