The term "implant-grade" is used frequently in the piercing industry and understood precisely by very few people outside it. It refers to a specific material standard — not a marketing claim, not a category invented by jewellery brands, but a technical specification developed for medical devices that are placed inside the human body. Understanding what it means, and why it matters for piercing jewellery, is the first step in making informed decisions about what goes into your skin.
What "implant-grade" actually means
The term most commonly used in professional body piercing is ASTM F136 — a standard published by ASTM International, the body that develops and maintains technical standards used in manufacturing, engineering, and materials science worldwide. ASTM F136 specifies the requirements for wrought titanium-6 aluminium-4 vanadium ELI (extra low interstitial) alloy — the titanium alloy used in surgical implants, orthopaedic hardware, and dental implants.
The standard sets limits on:
- Nickel content: ASTM F136 titanium is effectively nickel-free. This is critical — nickel is the most common cause of metal contact allergies in the population, and it is present in many alloys marketed as suitable for body wear.
- Surface finish: The finish must be smooth and non-porous. Porous surfaces harbour bacteria and create sites for tissue irritation. Implant-grade standards require a finish that minimises those risks.
- Elemental composition: The proportions of titanium, aluminium, and vanadium are specified within tight tolerances. Mystery metals — alloys of unknown composition — do not meet this standard by definition.
The equivalent ISO standard is ISO 5832-3, used in medical device contexts outside the United States. These standards exist because the consequences of placing the wrong material inside healing tissue are not cosmetic — they affect the body's ability to heal, generate chronic inflammation, and in some cases cause systemic reactions.
The difference between implant-grade titanium, surgical steel, and mystery metals
"Surgical steel" is not a material standard. It is a colloquial term applied to a range of stainless steel alloys, the most common of which is 316L or 316LVM (vacuum melted). These alloys contain nickel — typically 10–14% by composition. For the majority of clients, that nickel content causes no visible reaction in fully healed piercings. In a fresh wound, the situation is different: healing tissue is more permeable, more reactive, and more vulnerable to ionic metal release.
The professional body piercing community shifted away from surgical steel as an initial jewellery material over a decade ago, for precisely this reason. The APP (Association of Professional Piercers) and AUPP (Australasian Union of Professional Piercers) — of which Platinum Point's piercers are members — both specify implant-grade titanium as the correct material for initial jewellery.
"Hypoallergenic" is an unregulated claim. Any manufacturer can apply it to any product without independent verification. It means nothing specific in a regulatory sense in New Zealand or Australia. A piece of jewellery marketed as hypoallergenic may or may not contain nickel, may or may not have been tested, and may or may not be appropriate for body piercing. The claim should not be accepted as a substitute for a specific material standard.
Mystery metals — jewellery sold without specific material documentation — carry the highest risk. Unknown composition means unknown nickel content, unknown surface finish standard, and unknown biocompatibility. This category includes most jewellery sold in fashion retail, online marketplaces, and non-specialist piercing studios.
Thomas Manning, Head Piercer at Platinum Point, has a background as a Clinical Trials Aseptic Pharmacy Technician. That background shapes the approach to material standards in the studio: there is no acceptable margin for error when placing material inside healing tissue. The same rigour applied to pharmaceutical-grade sterility applies to jewellery specification.
Why your initial jewellery determines your healing outcome
The jewellery placed in a fresh piercing is in direct, continuous contact with disrupted tissue for months. The three material properties that affect healing most directly are:
- Porosity: A porous surface provides sites for bacterial adhesion and biofilm formation. Implant-grade materials are finished to a standard that minimises porosity. Mass-produced fashion jewellery is not.
- Surface finish quality: Rough or uneven surfaces cause mechanical irritation as the tissue moves against the jewellery during the healing process. Smooth, polished surfaces are the standard in implant-grade materials.
- Metal composition: Nickel release from alloys in contact with healing tissue generates an inflammatory response. Inflammation impairs healing. Chronic low-level inflammation from inappropriate jewellery is the root cause of most complications we see from clients who have been pierced elsewhere and come to us for assessment.
Bad initial jewellery is not just a comfort issue. It is the primary cause of prolonged healing, irritation bumps, infection risk, and piercing rejection. The choice made at the time of piercing has consequences measured in months.
What gold is safe for piercings
Not all gold is appropriate for body piercing. The only gold that meets the relevant standards is solid 14k or 18k gold in ASTM F136-compliant alloys. That means:
- Solid 14k gold (585): 58.3% pure gold throughout the piece. Safe for body wear in appropriate alloys. Harder and more durable than 18k.
- Solid 18k gold (750): 75% pure gold throughout. Softer, richer in colour, and preferred by clients with high metal sensitivity.
The following are not appropriate for body piercing, particularly in unhealed tissue:
- Gold-filled: A thick layer of gold bonded mechanically to a base metal core. Better than plating, but the base metal is present throughout the piece and the bond can degrade in a moist environment.
- Gold-plated: A micron-thin coating of gold on any base metal. The coating wears rapidly with wear and body chemistry exposure, exposing the base metal — typically brass, copper, or low-grade steel — directly to skin and tissue.
- PVD coating: Physical vapour deposition produces a harder coating than traditional gold plating, but it is still a coating on a base metal. It is not solid gold. "High-quality PVD" is not a material standard appropriate for jewellery placed inside healing tissue.
Solid gold is safe from day one in a new piercing, provided the alloy is correctly formulated. This is why BVLA — which produces only in solid 14k gold, 18k gold, and 950 platinum — is the jewellery of choice for clients at Platinum Point who want gold from initial healing onward.
How to verify before you book
Before booking at any piercing studio in New Zealand, it is reasonable to ask the following questions directly:
- What material standard does your starter jewellery meet? (The answer should specify ASTM F136 or equivalent, not simply "surgical steel" or "hypoallergenic".)
- Can I see the jewellery packaging? (Reputable implant-grade jewellery comes in packaging that specifies the material standard and brand.)
- What brand is it? (Established implant-grade brands — Titanium by BVLA, Anatometal, Industrial Strength, and others — have verifiable track records.)
Red flags: vague answers, the word "hypoallergenic" offered without a specific standard, inability to name a brand, or jewellery displayed loose without packaging. A studio that cannot answer these questions precisely is not operating to the professional standard that your healing requires.
What Platinum Point uses
Starter jewellery at Platinum Point is ASTM F136 implant-grade titanium, without exception. There is no entry-level option for initial jewellery at our studio — because there is no entry level when it comes to what is placed inside a healing wound.
For clients upgrading from titanium in healed piercings, all jewellery at Platinum Point is BVLA — solid gold and 950 platinum, handcrafted in Los Angeles. We are New Zealand's only exclusive BVLA studio. The jewellery section of our site covers the full range. Current pricing is on our pricing page.
Our piercers are AUPP members. Every appointment begins with a material and anatomy assessment. If you have questions about jewellery you are currently wearing — in a healing or healed piercing — call us at 09 949 0940 or email hello@platinumpoint.nz.
Frequently asked questions
Is surgical steel the same as implant-grade?
No. Surgical steel is a colloquial term covering several steel alloys, most of which contain nickel at levels that are inappropriate for placement in healing tissue. ASTM F136 implant-grade titanium is the current professional standard for initial piercing jewellery. It is nickel-free, meets the same specification used for medical implants, and is the material specified by AUPP and APP guidelines for new piercings. The two terms are not interchangeable.
Can I use cheaper jewellery once my piercing is healed?
Healed tissue is more forgiving than a fresh wound, but material quality still matters for long-term wear. Low-quality metals and coatings can cause reactions even in fully healed piercings, particularly with extended wear. The threshold for appropriate materials is lower once fully healed, but solid gold and implant-grade titanium remain the correct choices. We do not recommend gold-plated or mystery metal jewellery for sustained wear in any piercing.
What's the difference between titanium and gold for piercings?
Both ASTM F136 implant-grade titanium and solid 14k or 18k gold are appropriate for body piercings. Titanium is lighter, can be anodised into a range of colours, and is the standard initial jewellery material. Solid gold is the preferred choice for long-term fine jewellery wear in healed piercings. The two are complementary: titanium during healing, gold for decorative wear once the piercing has matured.