When clients come to upgrade their piercing jewellery to solid gold, one of the first questions is which karat to choose. The answer is not simple — 14k and 18k are different materials with different properties, and the right choice depends on what you're prioritising. This guide covers the factual differences, and where Platinum Point lands when making recommendations.
What 14k and 18k actually mean
Gold purity is measured in karats. Pure gold is 24 karats — 100% gold. Body jewellery is never made from pure gold; it's too soft to hold its shape or hold stone settings under daily wear.
- 14k gold is 58.3% pure gold. It carries the hallmark 585 in European standards. The remaining 41.7% is alloy metals — typically copper, silver, and zinc, sometimes small amounts of palladium.
- 18k gold is 75% pure gold. Hallmark 750. The remaining 25% is alloy metals.
Karat is a measure of purity, not of quality alone. Higher karat gold is purer, but purity and quality are not the same thing. Both 14k and 18k can be excellent or poor quality depending on manufacturing standards, alloy composition, and finishing. The brand matters as much as the karat.
The alloy metals — and why they matter for body jewellery
The alloy metals in gold body jewellery determine two important things: the metal's physical properties (hardness, colour, durability) and its biocompatibility — how the body responds to it in a piercing.
Nickel is the most reactive common alloy metal and the most frequent cause of metal sensitivity reactions. It was historically used in white gold alloys. BVLA uses nickel-free alloys in both its 14k and 18k gold — confirmed in their material specifications. This is a deliberate formulation choice, not an industry default.
When comparing gold jewellery for piercings, the question is not simply "14k or 18k" but "what is in the alloy?" ASTM F136 compliance for titanium has a clear standard. Gold body jewellery should be assessed on alloy composition, not karat alone. At Platinum Point, every BVLA piece meets this requirement — we don't stock gold from brands whose alloy composition is unverified or undisclosed.
14k: the practical choice
14k gold is the most widely used karat for body jewellery globally, and for practical reasons:
- Hardness — more alloy means harder metal. 14k holds stone settings more securely under the mechanical stress of daily wear. For pieces with pavé settings or intricate prong work, this matters.
- Colour range — 14k is available across the full gold colour spectrum: yellow, white, rose. Each colour behaves slightly differently due to alloy composition, but all are viable.
- Affordability — lower gold content means lower material cost. A 14k piece will generally cost less than the same design in 18k, which makes it the more accessible entry point to solid gold body jewellery.
- Availability — the majority of BVLA's catalogue is produced in 14k. The widest selection of pieces and designs is in 14k.
For most initial solid gold upgrades and for pieces that will be worn daily across years, 14k is the practical recommendation. It performs well, holds up, and is the standard the global body jewellery industry is built around.
18k: the luxury choice
18k gold carries a higher gold content — 75% — which produces distinct properties:
- Richer colour saturation — 18k yellow gold is more intensely yellow than 14k. The higher gold proportion amplifies the characteristic warm tone of pure gold. For clients who want yellow gold at its most recognisable, 18k achieves this more fully.
- Higher purity — for clients with documented sensitivities to alloy metals, higher gold content means less alloy exposure. This is a relevant consideration where a specific alloy sensitivity is confirmed.
- Prestige materials positioning — BVLA uses 18k for its premium collections and specific designs that are conceived and finished in 18k yellow. These pieces are intended to be made in 18k; the design and the metal are integrated.
- Higher cost — the increased gold content is reflected in price. 18k pieces sit at a higher price point than comparable 14k designs.
18k is marginally softer than 14k. In most daily-wear scenarios the practical difference is minimal, but for pieces with very fine or delicate settings, 14k's additional hardness is an advantage.
What Platinum Point recommends
For most clients making their first solid gold upgrade, 14k is the recommendation. It is the industry standard for a reason: it performs well in body jewellery applications, holds settings securely, is available across the widest range of BVLA designs, and is more accessible in price.
18k is the recommendation where:
- A client has a documented sensitivity to alloy metals and wants reduced alloy exposure
- A specific BVLA piece is designed and produced in 18k — some designs exist only in 18k yellow, and the choice is made by the piece, not by preference alone
- The client specifically wants the richer colour saturation of 18k yellow gold and is comfortable with the higher price point
There is no universal correct answer. Both are excellent materials when sourced from a manufacturer with verified alloy standards. The decision should be led by what you're buying — the specific piece — rather than a blanket karat preference.
What BVLA makes in each karat
BVLA produces pieces across both 14k and 18k, but not every design is available in every metal. Specific pieces are conceived and produced for specific metals — a cluster designed in 18k yellow will not be available in 14k. The selection is by piece, not by karat preference.
When you visit Platinum Point to choose a BVLA piece, the conversation is about which specific pieces suit your anatomy, your aesthetic, and your existing curation — and then which metal those pieces are available in. The studio's jewellery collection and in-studio stock reflects this: you choose the piece first, and the metal follows from what BVLA makes it in.
This is one reason why seeing pieces in person at the studio matters more than browsing online. BVLA photographs well in all metals, but the scale, weight, and colour of a piece against your skin are only fully apparent in person.
Frequently asked questions
Is 14k gold safe for sensitive skin?
Yes — provided the alloy is nickel-free and ASTM compliant. BVLA's 14k alloys are nickel-free. The reactive component in gold jewellery is the alloy metals — specifically nickel — which BVLA excludes from its formulations. If you have a documented nickel sensitivity, confirm the alloy composition before purchase. All BVLA pieces at Platinum Point carry verified material specifications.
Will 18k gold scratch more easily?
Marginally. Higher gold content means a softer metal — 18k is slightly less hard than 14k because it has more gold and less alloy. In practice, the difference in daily wear is minimal for most clients. Fine surface scratches accumulate on both over time. Neither 14k nor 18k BVLA pieces require unusual care beyond avoiding harsh chemicals and abrasives.
Does karat affect the colour of gold jewellery?
Yes. 18k yellow gold is more intensely yellow — closer to the warm, saturated tone of traditional fine jewellery — because it has a higher proportion of pure gold. 14k yellow gold has a slightly cooler, more muted tone. In rose gold, 14k has more copper warmth because the higher alloy percentage amplifies the copper colour. White gold looks visually similar across karats but differs in hardness and alloy composition.